When I'm not at home playing audio & music games, and writing about them for my fellow audio travelers, I like to get out and about on 2 wheels - either bicycling or motorcycling - to go exploring.
I've been enjoying bicycling now for almost 63 years, motorcycling for about 55 years, with my interest in audio being a more recent development from the early 1970s. I tend to stick with things I enjoy.
I've previously been enjoying the adventures of international travel ...
The beauty of Hallstatt, Austria.
Visiting Reims, France, a university town that is a center for Champagne culture.
'Dancing' on Dartmoor in the rain.
Traveling in Turkey.
Hot air ballooning in Cappadocia, a historical region in Central Anatolia in Turkey.
... but during the pandemic those adventures waned, and over the last 3 or 4 years I've developed an interest in exploring the largely forgotten small rural communities of the Pacific Northwest in Washington, Oregon, Montana, and Idaho, by motorbike.
99 miles of curves between Kamiah, Idaho, and Lolo Pass on the Montana border.
Lolo Pass on the Montana border with Idaho.
These were once vibrant rural communities in the 1950s and early 1960s, where outdoorsman thrived due to the many outdoors adventure opportunities that were just outside their front doors, but many of these communities are now in survival mode as their traditional means of support dwindled, right up to the present day.
Along the Clearwater River in Idaho.
Waitsburg, a beautiful rural village in Walla Walla County, WA.
Farming, cattle ranches, railways, forest products, and independent small Mom & Pop businesses formed the core of small town's businesses back then, but many have been pushed out of existence by encroaching multinational corporations, which bought up many farms and ranches, replaced the smaller independent local business with chains, which reduced the ability of the locals to thrive.
As a result, wages dropped for locals, access to higher education was hindered, and life opportunities decreased, all making for a disillusioned & desperate rural populace, due to their traditional way of life - and relative prosperity - disappearing.
The historic train station in Dayton, WA.
In Darwinian fashion, those rural communities either withered up and became a shadow of their former glory, or they found ways to reinvent themselves in order to survive.
The Pioneer Cemetery for the founders of Dayton, WA.
While the wreckage of rural communities is all too visible, there was still some hope, and some communities are once again beginning to thrive.
Those communities that had nearby outdoorsman recreation areas where people could go skiing, boating, white water rafting, wind surfing, fishing, hunting, camping, mountain climbing, cycling, off-roading, birding, and such, built up businesses around those activities, and survived.
Lake Chelan, just outside of Chelan, Washington.
New opportunities began to arise as Western Oregon (Willamette Valley, Columbia Gorge, etc.) and Eastern Washington (Tri-Cities, Walla Walla, etc.) became known for their vineyards and excellent wines.
Western Oregon has been producing splendid Pinot Noirs, Chardonnays, Rieslings, and Pinot Gris, and the wineries have become destination visits for locals.
In Eastern Washington notable Cabernet Sauvignons, Merlots, Syrahs, and red blends have been popular. Wineries have been combining food and music to attract people, and are transforming (terraforming?) smaller communities.
There's a nice overview about Pacific Northwest viticulture HERE.
For example, there are more than a dozen wineries within minutes of where I live, and the number dramatically increases within the range of an hour's drive.
Add to that the thriving craft beer movement, small distilleries, small boutique restaurants, cannabis businesses (except for Idaho), concert venues, all the nearby outdoors activities, and some of those small rural communities are starting to increase in prosperity once again.
The Pacific Northwest has always been an exciting place for motorcyclists, with a multitude of both on and off-road adventures to be had. Whether it's touring the coastal areas, the curvy mountain backroads, or traversing the popular Backcountry Discovery Routes, there's lots of good riding for us motor-bikers.
There was a brief break in the smoke from wildfires and the inhospitable weather this last week, with the 10 day forecast looking reasonable, so I decided a tour through the backcountry of Eastern Washington & Oregon, and Northern Idaho, was in order.
The weather can change quickly in the mountains, which meant this might be my last opportunity for a longer ride before inclement weather settles in.
As I got on my way, I had an exciting moment on a rural backroad of Eastern Washington, when a farmworker in a pickup truck ran me off the road while trying to pass a long line of trucks.
Fortunately, there was runoff room on the road shoulder for me to avoid him, but it did produce an adrenaline moment. He was a thoughtful gent though, and waved at me as he roared by. At least I think it was a wave.
That's the third or fourth time that's happened to me in the last three years, those Eastern Washington farming country state highways are scary.
My plan for my first day was to travel through the farming & ranching communities of Northeast Oregon, pass through historic Heppner - the "Gateway to the Blues" - and then cross the remote Forest Service roads through the 130 miles of the Blue Mountains Scenic Byway, through the Umatilla National Forest, the Ukiah Basin, and then to stop in historic Baker City, OR, for the night.
I stopped to stretch out and take a break at a Ranger Station somewhere by Ukiah, I think.
I've never traveled cross country on the Forest Service roads before, in fact I didn't even know it was possible, but it makes for a beautiful and scenic ride. The Forest Service posts signs as you enter the area that you "Travel at your own risk."
It's primitive out there, and probably doesn't look much different than it did a century ago. There's no gas stations, no cell service, not many people, lots of wildlife, cattle on the road in free-range areas, and help is a long way off should an emergency arise.
Fortunately, my BMW R1250GSA all-road touring motorcycle has an almost 400 mile range, so finding gas along the way is not a concern.
Traveling alone, I always carry a Garmin inReach Mini satellite communicator with me for emergencies in the outback.
I had a couple of exciting moments along the way. I had a close call with some cattle that got spooked in a free-range area of the Blue Mountains as I rode by, and a large bird - hawk or owl, I think - almost beaned me when it flew out of tree as I was riding past.
I didn't get many photos in the Blue Mountain Scenic Byway, as the Forest Service Roads were narrow and windy, with little room to pull off and take photos.
There was lots of wildlife all around. I saw a small deer herd run across the road in front of me, and away through the forest, as I intruded upon their space.
It was a long but beautiful ride through the forests, but I was glad to get to Baker City, Oregon, for the evening.
I checked in at Bridge Street Inn - which was staffed with friendly and helpful people - and with remodeled rooms that were surprisingly nice inside.
Don't judge the BSI by its exterior appearance - it looks like a dive motel from the outside - but it's nice inside, and is a short 5 minute walk to the Historic Downtown of Baker City. Did I mention it's inexpensive to stay at the BSI? I like that!
Baker City, near the Oregon Trail, has a number of museums for history buffs of that period.
Street art was all over in Baker City - a nice touch!
Baker City’s historic downtown district is undergoing a revival or sorts, with the old storefronts being refurbished with new businesses: restaurants, craft breweries, art galleries, antique stores, museums, and it’s creating a ‘tourist destination’ for the surrounding communities.
There's an obvious sense of community spirit in Baker City, with beautification of the historic downtown, street art, and businesses moving in.
While out walking around, I stopped into the Deliscioso Mexican Restaurant for dinner, and it was indeed delicious!
In fact the salsa was the best in my experience, and my dinner was superb.
After dinner I did some more exploring. Street art was prolific, and I love it when communities do this, as it really adds a sense of fun and artsy adventure to the streets.
I spied a craft brew pub just down the street from the giraffe, the Beerded Dog, and stopped in for a beer. The 1188 Hefeweizen was excellent.
Kudos to the friendly bearded bartender who filled me in on the local scene - cheers!
Just down the street from the Beerded Dog, was Barely Brown's Pub, which brews fresh beer right on the premises, and is a favorite hangout of the locals.
The Geiser Grand Hotel, established in 1889, was a beauty, but a spendy place to stay. If you want to go upscale, this is the place to stay, right in the middle of Baker City's Historic Downtown.
I was told that Sweet Wife Baking was the place to have breakfast.
I was also told that AJs Corner Brick Bar and Grill was a great place for lunch & dinner, but didn't get to check it out as it was closed during the time I was there.
There was a lot more to see and do in Baker City than I had time to investigate, so I think a follow up trip is in order.
It's nice to see the revival that is beginning in Baker City. There's obviously a lot of civic pride involved, and I wish them the best in their endeavors, it's nice to see a prospering small town.
If you are passing through the area, or live close by, be sure to spend some time in Baker City, it's worth your time.
After wearing myself out walking around town, I headed back to my room at the Inn to relax, and spent some time reading Marcus Aurelius' excellent Meditations, while considering the next leg of my ride.
Overnight, the temperature plunged into the low to mid forties along my route through Eastern Oregon up through the Wallowa Mountains, on my route towards Kamiah, in Northern Idaho.
Downtown in Enterprise, OR. A nice little Pacific Northwest village nestled in the Wallowa Mountains.
Last year I got a bit of a surprise on that route, while in Enterprise, when weather unexpectedly changed and turned to freezing rain, making the roads treacherous on a motorbike. I survived it, but wasn't keen to repeat that.
So that became the deciding factor for that leg of my trip, and I decided to curtail my multi-day ride through the mountains, and instead decided to ride back towards home through the Blue Mountains.
To the young woman who pulled up alongside me while on a stretch of freeway, rolled down her car window, and blew kisses at me - thank you!
You made me smile for miles!
If there's a moral to this story, I guess it is to get out and about and explore the world around you, as life is short and could end at any time. Memento mori.
International travel is fun & illuminating, but there might be an adventure lurking a short ways away if you look for it.
Well that's it for now, and soon I'll be back on the audio trail with updates and some cool news for you.
As always, thanks for stopping by, and may the tone be with you!
